Cataluña’s Priorat Wine Region (Spain): A Visit to La Conreria D'Scala Dei Winery (Part 6)

This last installment in our series about the Priorat wine region in Spain is about our visit to the Conreria D’Scala Dei Winery last November. The winery takes its name from the nearby monastery where the Carthusian monks planted vineyards and began making wine in the 12th C.

The winery at Conreria D’Scala Dei is much larger than the other wineries we visited (Clos D’Lobac and Mas Doix) and has an annual production of about 68,000 bottles of wine, which is significantly more than the other wineries. On the day of our visit, we ended up doing the tour with a group of about 30 Spaniards who were touring the region. The tour itself was given by the winemaker, a gentleman named Hyuska, who led us through the wine making journey, from when the grapes come in to how the wine is bottled. We were also able to sample the wine at various stages of the process.

Conreria Scala Dei produces a white wine that is made from Garnacha (or Grenache) grapes under the label Les Brugueres, and a red that is a blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cariñena, under the label La Conreria. The other two red wines produced are the award-winning Iugiter and Iugiter Selecció wines. The Iugiter wines are aged in French and American oak casks for 8-14 months, and bottle aged for at least 1 year. The Iugiter Selecció wine is aged in French Allier oak casks for 12-18 months, and bottle aged for at least 2 years.

The tour of the winery ends in a beautiful brick-walled room that houses a number of vaults that contain the private collections of patrons of the winery. Hyuska served us samples of the four different wines produced, and bottles of wines were also available for purchase.

Tours of La Conreria D’Scala Dei are offered from Monday through Saturday and can be booked online at the winery’s website at scaladei.org. The cost of the tour and tasting during our visit was 10 Euros per person.

Photo credit: © Christopher Pappas

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On the Menu…Restaurante El Churrasco, Córdoba (Spain)

After strolling through the Judería and admiring the beautiful patios in this medieval Jewish quarter, take a break and enjoy a meal at El Churrasco Restaurante. Established in 1970, the restaurant is housed in traditional Córdoba-style building, complete with a beautiful interior patio.

El Churrasco is well known for its grilled meat dish - the restaurant's namesake - but also turns out a selection of classic Córdoba dishes, including gazpacho blanco de piñones (cold white gazpacho made from pine nuts), berenjenas crujientes con salmorejo Cordobés (crispy fried eggplant with salmorejo - see sidebar for more info), and rabos de añojo (bull's tail stew). Fish lovers will also delight in the variety offered, including tuna, swordfish, cod, and shrimp. For dessert try the pastel Cordobés, a cake made from puff pastry, sweet pumpkin filling and bits of Serrano ham.

• Calle Romero, 16 
• Phone: (957) 290 819
• Córdoba, Spain 
• Website: El Churrasco

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On the Menu…Tapas 24, Barcelona (Spain)

Foodies looking for a dining experience in Barcelona that won’t break the bank should make a beeline to Tapas 24, where the atmosphere is casual and the menu offers everyday favorites that have been raised to new heights. Tapas 24 is one of chef Carles Abellan’s three restaurants in Barcelona, which include Comerç 24 (with 1 Michelin star) and Bravo24 in the W Hotel. Chef Abellan worked for many years alongside chef Ferran Adrià at his world-renowned restaurant El Bulli on the Costa Brava, before opening his own restaurants in Barcelona.

The first thing you need to know about Tapas 24 is that it does not take reservations, and it is a very small restaurant with limited seating. Most diners sit at a counter facing the bar and kitchen where you can watch your food being prepared. There are additional tables indoors (high-top tables with stools), as well as a handful of tables located outdoors on the sidewalk terrace. The next thing you need to know is that this is a very popular place, with both locals and tourists, so if you want to eat here you’ll have to arrive early (by Barcelona standards) between 7:00 - 8:00pm. Once 8:30pm rolls around the locals will start streaming in and there will be a long wait for your chance to sample the delicious tapas on the menu.

While you’re deciding which tapas to try, start out with the Pan con Tomate (bread with tomato, olive oil and salt), an absolute staple in any Barcelona restaurant. Another must-try is the Bikini Comerç 24, which is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich that has been elevated to a whole new level. The ham in question is actually the fine cured Spanish Jamón Ibérico, the cheese is a mild white cheese, and the special ingredient that takes the Bikini out of the realm of a normal sandwich is the shaved black truffle that they add to it. Don’t be surprised if you order seconds on this one, you won’t be alone. Even if you don’t normally order fried eggs for dinner, you really should try the Huevos Estrellados (literally “smashed eggs”), which is a delicious combination of fried eggs, french fries, and a selection of meats that you get to choose from. This is an egg dish that is delicious at any time of the day. The tapas menu also includes traditional dishes, such as Patatas Bravas, Croquettes, Lentils with Chorizo, and Tripe, which makes it hard to select from so many great choices.
Be sure to leave room for dessert so you can try the Xocolata Amb Pa Oli i Sal, which is a chocolate mousse, drizzled with olive oil and sea salt, and topped with toasted bread. While you may not normally add olive oil and salt to your chocolate, you may start doing so after tasting how well they all come together at Tapas 24.

• Carrer de la Diputació, 269
• Phone: (93) 488-0977
• Barcelona, Spain
• Website: Tapas 24

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Cataluña’s Priorat Wine Region (Spain): Location and history of the region (Part 1)

This is the first in a series of posts about Cataluña’s Priorat wine region. Over the series we will introduce you to this region and wine type, which has been gaining popularity, and then share with you information from our recent visit to a few of the vineyards in the region.

The Priorat wine region is located about 1.5 hours south of Barcelona in the province of Tarragona. It is easily accessed via the motorway AP-7 (toll road) south towards Tarragona. Get off the AP-7 at exit 34 and follow the signs to T-11 towards the town of Reus. Once past Reus look for signs to N-420, which is the smaller, local road that will take you to Falset, which is the capital of the region, and a good place to select as a base for exploring the surrounding villages and wineries.

The wine region received its Denominació d’Origen (DO), which means Designation of Origen, in 1954. But winemaking in the region can be traced back to the 12th C. when the monks from the Carthusian Monastery Scala Dei (Ladder to God) began planting vineyards on the steep terraced hillsides of the region and making wine. The monks ruled over the seven nearby villages for over 600 years, until their land was seized by the state in 1835. The monks fled and the monastery was subsequently ransacked and burned down by the local peasants who revolted against the oppression they had been subjected to by the church. The ruins of the Scala Dei Monastery can still be visited, and this site is a must see for visitors to the region. For more information on the monastery, click here.

Our next post in the series will provide info on how this region was revitalized in 1979 and caught the attention of wine lovers and critics the world over.

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On the Menu…Taberna Bar Santos, Córdoba (Spain)

Located across from the Mezquita, Bar Santos is a great place to take a break from sightseeing and have a snack. If you have trouble finding it, just look for the crowd of people lined up against the Mezquita wall that are enjoying their food and drink outdoors. Bar Santos is a very small tapas bar with no seats, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in the delicious food it turns out.

On the menu you will find the dishes that are traditional in Córdoba, such as Salmorejo (a creamy chilled soup made of tomatoes, bread, garlic, vinegar and olive oil), Rabo de Toro (oxtail stew), Morcilla Ibérico (Iberian blood sausage), and a variety of Bocadillos (sandwiches). But what most people come to Bar Santos for is the Tortilla Española (Spanish omelet made with potatoes), for which they have won awards. Besides being absolutely delicious, the Tortilla at Bar Santos is renowned for its size – it’s easily twice as high as a regular tortilla found elsewhere, and many would say it’s also twice as good.

So after seeing the Mezquita, do as the locals and enjoy a slice of tortilla with a cold beer or a nice glass of sherry, and soak up the ambiance of this beautiful city.

• Calle Magistral González Francés, 3
• Córdoba, Spain
• Phone: (957) 48 89 75
• Website: Bar Santos

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On the Menu…Cozinha Velha Restaurant, Queluz (Portugal)

 

 

 

Take a short taxi ride just 15 km outside of Lisbon to the town of Queluz, and you can be transported back in time with a visit to the Cozinha Velha Restaurant.

The restaurant is housed in the building that formerly served as the kitchen for the 17th C. Palace of Queluz, which is known as the “Portuguese Versailles”. The former Royal Guard barracks opposite the Palace today serves as the Pousada of Queluz hotel.

The interior of the restaurant is elegant and romantic, with its stone arches, vaulted ceiling, marble columns and majestic fireplace. The menu offers traditional regional cuisine, with specialties such as lobster medallions, salted codfish dumplings, and steamed Dover sole.

Be sure to leave room for dessert, as there is a wide array of tempting sweets displayed on the large stone table that you won’t be able to resist.

• Palacio Nacional de Queluz
• Queluz, Portugal
• Phone: (21) 435 61 58
• Website: Cozinha Velha Restaurant

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On the Menu…Taberna Coloniales, Seville (Spain)

 

 

 

 

If you work up an appetite while strolling through the streets of this beautiful city, take a break and enjoy some tapas at Taberna Coloniales. This is a popular tapas bar close to the Casa de Pilatos, and just a short walk from the Cathedral.

The menu offers a wide variety of traditional tapas to choose from. If you're not sure what to have, ask one of the friendly waiters to make some suggestions, and be sure to ask what the tapa of the day is. The wine list features a nice selection of wines from many of Spain's fine wine producing regions, or when in doubt, order a tasty pitcher of sangria to accompany your delicious meal.

Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19            Phone: (954) 50 11 37

Sevilla, Spain                             Web: Taberna Coloniales

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On the Menu…Casa Labra, Madrid (Spain)

 

 

 

 

 

Located in the epicenter of Madrid, just off the Puerta del Sol, is Casa Labra, a Madrid institution that was founded in 1860. If you have any trouble finding it, just look for the place with a crowd spilling over onto the sidewalk next to El Corte Inglés department store.

Hungry Madrileños line up to enjoy the specialty of the house, the Bacalao de la Casa, which is small pieces of cod that are battered and fried until golden, as well as the Bacalao Croquetas (cod croquettes), which are equally delicious. Whether you stand at the crowded bar or at one of the tables outside of the bar, or sit in the restaurant where you can select from a variety of the cod and meat dishes offered, you are sure to enjoy a delicious meal at a restaurant that has been attracting the discerning locals for over 150 years.

Tetuán, 12                Phone: (91) 531-0081

Madrid, Spain             Web: Casa Labra

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On the Menu…Irati Taverna Basca, Barcelona (Spain)

 

 

 

 

Irati Taverna Basca is located just off the bustling Rambla de San Josep, not far from the famous Liceu Opera House.  It is one of our favorite places to grab a light snack of Basque pintxos in the Gothic Quarter. 

Along the line of tapas, pintxos are small snacks eaten at bars, but they tend to be a bit larger and are usually served individually on bread slices with a toothpick (i.e. "spike" - or pintxo in Basque) in them. A variety of toppings is offered, and since they are all displayed on the bar, all you have to do is pick the ones that look most interesting or appealing to you. You can eat as many or as few as you'd like, but if you're like us you'll find yourself with a stack of toothpicks on your plate before long. Be sure to hang on to those toothpicks, since the bartender will count them up when you're done so he can tally up your check

Cardenal Casañas, 17        Phone: (93) 302-3084

Barcelona, Spain               Web: Irati Taverna Basca

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On the Menu…El Patio San Eloy, Seville (Spain)

 

 

 

 

 

If shopping on the Calle Sierpes, one of Seville's main shopping streets, makes you hungry, then head over to El Patio San Eloy to take a break and enjoy the lively atmosphere and delicious tapas offered here. You can sit at a table or on the ceramic tile benches in the rear and enjoy a cold caña (beer) and some tapas or montaditos (small sandwiches). 

There is always a buzz from the crowd of local shoppers and students who frequent this tapas bar. They are drawn in by the casual and welcoming ambiance, and of course the tasty food!

Calle San Eloy,           Phone (954) 50 11 37

Sevilla, Spain

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On the Menu…Restaurante Sacramento do Chiado, Lisbon (Portugal)

 

 

 

 

 

When you step inside this inviting restaurant, with its brightly colored windows and warm, modern décor, you will understand why it is a favorite dining destination for the locals. But beauty is more than skin deep at this popular restaurant, since what really lures diners in is the food. People keep coming back for the traditional Portuguese dishes that are prepared with a modern-day twist.

There are a variety of appetizers to choose from, including tasty prawns sautéed in olive oil and garlic, and lightly seasoned with cilantro and lemon, carpaccio of cod, and a selection of Portuguese cheeses. For entrees there is a wide variety of fish and meats to choose from, and some vegetarian options as well. And don't forget to leave room for dessert! Besides having a friendly and knowledgeable staff, Sacramento also has a nice selection of Portuguese wines to choose from.

Calçada do Sacramento 40-46      Phone (21) 342 05 72

Lisbon, Portugal                         Web:Restaurante Sacramento de Chiado

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On the Menu…Restaurante Casa Mingo, Madrid (Spain)

 

 

 

When you step inside of Casa Mingo you will be transported to another part of Spain - Asturias, to be exact - as it is an Asturian cider house that was founded in 1888. It is located near the Estación del Norte (North train station). The specialty of the house is roast chicken, which is a staple for the locals who either join the crowds and eat in, or take them to go to enjoy them at home. 

Inside the restaurant, which is built into a stone wall, you will find walls covered in bottles of sidra, the tasty cider that comes from Asturias. You will be amazed as you watch the waiters, and others who are daring, pour the cider in the traditional manner, which entails holding the bottle around the height of their head, into a glass that is located at the height of their waist. It's truly a technique that requires quite a bit of practice, so don't try this at home!

Paseo de la Florida, 34                Phone: (91) 547-7918

Madrid, Spain                            Web: Casa Mingo

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On the Menu…Restaurante La Almudaina, Córdoba (Spain)

 

 

 

Located near the Mezquita you will find La Almudaina. The restaurant is housed in a 16th C. palace that was constructed by Leopoldo of Austria, who was the Bishop of Córdoba and the uncle of Emperor Carlos V. Beautifully restored, the interior has a series of attractive dining rooms, including an interior patio that is topped with a glass-roof ceiling.

The menu at La Almudaina is representative of the traditional Córdoba kitchen, which uses fresh ingredients that are sourced from local markets. You can start off your meal with a bowl of Salmorejo, a local favorite chilled soup made with tomatoes, olive oil, vinegar, garlic, and bread, which is topped with chopped eggs and diced Serrano ham. For a main dish, try the Rabo de Toro Cordobés (oxtail stew), Solomillo al Foie (sirloin with foie gras), or a fresh fish, such as Lomo de Bacalao (cod fillet) or Lomo de Merluza con Hortalizas (hake fillet with garden vegetables). There is also a good selection of homemade desserts to choose from, and a wine menu that features a wide range of wines at reasonable prices.

Pl. Campo Santo de los Mártires, 1               Phone: (957) 47 43 42

Córdoba, Spain                                         Web: La Almudaina

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On the Menu…Restaurante A Ceia, Braga (Portugal)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just a short walk from the Cathedral of Braga, in the old center of town, is Restaurante A Ceia. This rustic style adega (wine tavern) has a casual and inviting atmosphere. On the menu you will find traditional Portuguese dishes, including Cozido à Portuguesa, a classic Portuguese stew, and cod dishes such as Bacalhau à Zé-do-Pipo (made with layers of cod, onions, mashed potatoes, and mayonnaise that are oven baked), and the house specialty Bacalhau à Ceia. 

The restaurant also serves specialties of the Minho region, including Alheira de Caça, a light, garlicky sausage made of chicken or game, and Papas de Sarrabulho, which is a dish that is made with pig's blood and is only served in the winter months.

Rua do Raio, 331                 Phone (25) 326 39 32
Braga, Portugal

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On the Menu…Restaurante O Dezaseis, Santiago de Compostela (Spain)

 

 

 

Restaurante O Dezaseis (which means "16") is a perfect place to have some tapas or a sit down meal after you've been visiting the sites in the casco antiguo (old town). Located just a short walk from the Cathedral, you will find O Dezaseis by descending a stone-lined staircase that leads you down to a rustic and charming 300 year-old dining room that once served as a stable. 

In addition to the ambiance, the locals come here for the food. They are well known for their empanadas, which are pastry-covered pies that are often filled with fish or meat. The house specialty at O Dezaseis is the tuna empanada, which is round in shape and filled with tuna and flavored with paprika. The tapas menu has many other local dishes to choose from, including the pulpo a grela (grilled octopus), which gains rave reviews from all who try it.

If you're looking for slightly larger portions, you can also choose from the selection of raciones offered, which are larger portions that can be shared. Some of the stand-outs on the menu are the lacón (the local cured and cooked ham), the razor clams, and the oxtail stew, just to name a few. Leave room for dessert, and try some of the local cheeses, or the cheese flan.

Rúa de San Pedro, 16                     Phone: (981) 564 880

Santiago de Compostela, Spain        Web: O Dezaseis

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On the Menu…Don Sebastião Restaurante, Lagos (Portugal)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Located in the heart of the historic town of Lagos, on a pedestrian cobblestone street not far from the waterfront, you will find Don Sebastião Restaurante. Since opening in 1979, the restaurant has attracted a loyal following of customers who come for the traditional Portuguese cuisine, fresh seafood, and local ambiance with warm, friendly service. The interior dining rooms feature a rustic décor with traditional brick archways, or you can dine al fresco on the lovely outdoor terrace.

The menu features locally sourced ingredients, such as fish, shrimp, crabs, oysters and other seafood that come in daily on the local fishing boats. If you prefer meat, you can also find a selection of traditional Portuguese dishes, including pork chops with figs, or a hearty lamb stew with red wine.

To accompany your meal you can select from the extensive wine list. The owner's collection of over 240 varieties of Portuguese wines is stored in the restaurant's own underground wine cellar. Special tours of the cellar and wine tastings can be arranged with advance notice.

Rua 25 de Abril, 20-22         Phone: (282) 780 480

Lagos, Portugal                  Web: Don Sebastião

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On the Menu...Restaurante 100 Maneiras, Lisbon (Portugal)

 

 

 

 

 

If you venture over to Lisbon's trendy Bairro Alto neighborhood, make sure you visit one of the city's new hip restaurants, 100 Maneiras, which is Portuguese for "100 ways." The Bosnian-born chef Ljubomir Stanisic has won over both customers and critics alike with his modern interpretation of Portuguese cuisine.

He uses only the freshest ingredients, which are sourced daily from the local market. The menu offered is a 10-course prix fixe tasting menu that is sure to delight any foodie. The restaurant's intimate atmosphere, professional wait staff and inventive menu offerings are sure to leave you with a true dining experience. Be sure to make a reservation, since this small restaurant is sought out by many, and you won't want to be turned away.

Rua do Teixeira 35, Bairro Alto               Phone: (21) 099 04 75 Lisbon, Portugal                                  Web: Restaurante 100

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On the Menu...L'Estimat Restaurante, Valencia (Spain)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Paella is one of Spain's best known dishes and is served in restaurants throughout the country. But Valencia is the birthplace of this quintessential Spanish dish, so no visit to this city would be complete without sampling this local favorite.

L'Estimat Restaurant is a family owned restaurant that was established in 1927 and today is run by the 3rd generation of its founders. It is located on the Paseo Neptuno on Las Arenas beach. Here you will find so many different types of paella to choose from, that one visit may not be enough. If you're not sure where to start, the traditional Paella Valenciana, that contains chicken, rabbit, snails and vegetables, is a good choice, or you can opt for the Paella Marinera, that contains a variety of fresh seafood, including mussels, calamari and shrimp. Whatever type of paella you choose (seafood, meat, vegetable, or a combination), you will not leave hungry.

Paseo Neptuno, 16                     Phone: (963) 711 018

Valencia, Spain                          Web: L'Estimat Restaurante

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On the Menu...Casa Lucio, Madrid (Spain)

 

 

 

 

 

Casa Lucio is located in the heart of Old Madrid, not far from the Plaza Mayor. Since 1974 it has been serving traditional Castilian dishes, such as Callos a la Madrileña (Madrid-style tripe), Cocido (Madrid-style stew), Cochinillo (roast suckling pig), Merluza de la Casa (hake in green sauce), and its signature dish, Huevos Estrellados ("broken eggs" mixed with potatoes). The charming atmosphere of the interior of the restaurant, with its tiled floors and white-washed walls, adds to the warm ambiance created by Lucio and his family, who still run the restaurant to this day.

Cava Baja, 35                                     Phone: (91) 365-8217
Madrid, Spain                                      Web: Casa Lucio

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On the Menu...Portugal's Other Wine: Vinho Verde

Most people are familiar with Port wine, the fortified wine named after Portugal's second largest city. But there is also another uniquely Portuguese wine produced in the Minho region called vinho verde, which literally means "green wine." The name "green" refers to the freshness of the wine, and not to the color, as the grapes are picked late and it is intended to be drunk within a year of bottling.

Vinhos verdes are light and fresh, have a lower alcohol content, and are a little bit fizzy. There are both red and white varieties; the reds are deep red in color and tannic, and the whites are lemon or straw colored, with fruity and floral aromas.

Vinhos verdes are served chilled, and go well with citrus-inspired foods and seafood. They are a perfect summer wine.

A few Minho region vineyards - click on name for their website:

• Casa de Vila Verde
• Aveleda
• Borges Wines
• Quinta de Santa Maria
• Quinta do Ameal
• Quinta de Gomariz

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